India (October-November 2019): Varanasi

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Located on the banks of the river Ganges, Varanasi is the holiest city of Hinduism and Jainism. It is also one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. I spent 3 days in Varanasi at the end of this trip. It turned out that the 2019 Chhath festival dedicated to the sun God Surya and the Goddess Ushas happened during the second night of my stay. This festival brings several 100,000 worshippers from all regions of India for a gigantic puja. In the afternoon, these worshippers, who usually come in rather large groups (family, friends), settle down with their offerings on the ghats (steps leading to the river) and between the ghats. Most spend the night there waiting for the sunrise on the next morning to deliver their offerings, chanting and bathing in the river. Despite the large number of prior photos and videos of such an event, being there in person is a unique experience.

During my visit, I had a private guide, Lao-Tse Tripathi, who had been arranged for me by the excellent VaranasiWalks. (As I was surprised by his first name, he told me that his father, who holds a PhD in Sanskrit, is an admirer of the Chinese philosopher Lao-Tse.)

On the banks of the Ganges:

On a normal day they are rather quiet...

,,,but in the afternoon prior to the Chhath puja they quickly filled up with enormous crowds of worshippers.

People settled down with their offerings, sometimes next to the water.

Lanterns hanging on bamboo poles were erected along the river and old buildings were illuminated.

On the following morning, new celebrations started early, much before sunrise.

Everyone was waiting for the moment when the sun will appear on the horizon. But on that morning the air was so polluted that this moment might have been missed, had it not been announced by loudspeakers. The announcement was immediately followed by louder chants. (I took the photo below slightly later when the rising sun had become clearly visible.)

Prior to and after this announcement, many people entered into the water to deliver their offerings. Some bathed in the river. Fewer drunk water from the river.

Most worshippers started leaving the Ganges relatively soon after sunrise. A couple of hours later the banks of the river were again much quieter.

Temples:

Not surprisingly, holy Varanasi is home to thousands of Hindu temples (mandirs), perhaps tens of thousands. Many are private. Some are very small. Most are hidden by surrounding buildings and reached via narrow alleys. I only visited a few of them.

Kasiraj Kali Temple

Kasiraj Kali Temple

Durga Kund Mandir

Narrow lanes of old Varanasi:

The oldest part of Varanasi is a huge maze of very atmospheric narrow lanes bordered by run down houses (some of which, like havelis, may have had a glorious past), temples, and tiny shops.

Some lanes are incredibly busy, while others are surprisingly quiet.

Food and flower vendors are almost everywhere, day and night.

Left: Vendor of bhang lassi (lassi ″flavored″ with cannabis). Right: Street barber (no need for a shop!).

Left: Man sitting in front of his shop, selling I don′t know what. Right: Vendor of mantra rosaries and other religious items.

Left: Woman making offerings at a tiny shrine. Right: Woman watching passing people from her doorsteps.

Other people.

Man training at an old wrestling club.

Young street performer.

Many of the old monks that one can see in town are devout Hindus who believe that death and cremation in Varanasi will allow them to achieve ″moksha″, that is, liberation from reincarnation. They usually come to Varanasi near the end of their lives, where they can stay in one of a number of simple hospices funded for that purpose by wealthy benefactors, provided that they renounce all earthly possessions.

The lanes of old Varanasi are also a kaleidoscope of beautiful doors of old houses.

Ramnagar:

Ramnagar is a relatively small city opposite to Varanasi across the Ganges river. For centuries it has been home of the King of Varanasi, known as Kashi Naresh. It is also boasts a gorgeous Hindu temple.

Ramnagar Fort. This sandstone fort/palace was built in 1750 by Kashi Naresh Raja Balwant Singh on high ground above the Ganges river. Despite being in bad shape and poorly maintained, it is still inhabited by the current Kashi Naresh.

Durga Mandir. This superb temple dedicated to Hindu Goddess Durga was built some 500 years ago. Its square base is decorated with many square blocks and a profusion of stone carvings and statues. It is surmounted by an elegant beehive-style pyramid with curved edges.

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