India,Oct-Novt 2019: West Kameng

India (October-November 2019): Thembang, Dirang, and Bomdila

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This page shows photos of three villages/towns, Thembang, Dirang, and Bomdila, all located in the West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh. I briefly visited Thembang on my way to the first trek, and later Dirang and Bomdila on my way back to Guwahati after the second trek and the visit of Tawang.

Thembang:

Thembang is an ancient Monpa village located at about 2300 m altitude. In medieval time, it was ruling a large territory and was protected by fortifications against attacks by other local tribes and Tibetans. Today two well-preserved gates are the only remains of these fortifications.

View of Thembang from the main road south of Dirang, with the (new) gompa standing above the village.

The old part of the village seen from its gompa. One of the old gates is visible in the photo.

View toward the north from the village, with two high peals visible: the closest is the main Gorichen peak (6488m) and the one further north is Kangto (7060m).

The two gates remaining from the old fortifications: the south gate on the left and the north one on the right.

Another view of the south gate.

Most old houses in the villages are built with a combination of stones, wood, and bamboo, which is typical in Monpa houses.

One of the houses made entirely of wood (except the tin roof).

Home of the village chief. Note the wood paintings below the roof. Three phallic symbols hang from the roof beams (one is visible in the photo on the right). They are supposed to scare demons away and protect the house.

Stupa and gompa above the village.

Corn and cabbage are some of the main cultures around the village.

Se La (Ze La):

This 4170m pass lies at the border between the districts of Tawang and of West Kameng on the road connecting Tawang and Bomdila. This road is quite popular with local bikers.

Dirang:

Dirang consists of a modern town and an old village separated by a couple of kilometers.

View over the new town from the road going down from Se La.

The Thupsung Dhargye Ling monastery is a recently built, beautifully decorated Buddhist monastery in the hills on the west of new Dirang.

Painting is the main staircase of the monastery.

Roof decoration.

The main part of the monastery at the upper level., which hosts the main prayer hall.

Entrance of the prayer hall.

The two paintings at the entrance door.

Inside the prayer hall.

The old Dirang village is similar in style to Thembang. Its (unique) gate is over-restored, but its houses are generally in better condition than those of Thembang.