Muztagh Ata and Karakoram Highway (Pakistan and China)
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I climbed Muztagh Ata in Xinjiang (China) in July and August 2000. The trip
was organized by Adventure Consultants from New Zealand, and the climb was
guided by Mike Roberts (New Zealand). In addition to Mike and myself,
our team included
Ghulam Hassan (Pakistan) and Andrew Stone (Australia). All of us summitted
on August 9th, on the morning of the 13th day spent on the mountain.
The climb is technically easy, and the main difficulties are the elevation,
the bad weather, and the hidden crevasses. Mike and myself skied the mountain
up and down (up from and down to Camp 1 at 5400m). The ski up was usually
comfortable and more energy-efficient than using snow shoes.
The ski down had some good sections, especially near the very top and
above Camp 1. We also had some bad stretches, especially on the steepest
section between Camps 2 and 1, where we had crusty snow and null
visibility among many crevasses. I believe that skiing the mountain
is far more enjoyable than doing it on foot.
To reach the basis of Muztagh Ata, we drove from Rawalpindi/Islamabad
in Pakistan along the Karakoram Highway. The road is often terrible,
but the sceneries are stunning, especially in the Hunza region,
with Nanga Parbat (8125m) and many other
summits above 7000m, including Rakaposi, Diram, Ultar I and II. We went
on several short hikes to acclimitize before reaching Muztagh Ata.
The Karakoram Highway crosses the border between Pakistan and China
at Khunjerab Pass (4730m).
After Muztagh Ata, we continued our drive along the Karakoram Highway
to Kashgar.
These are the elevations at which we slept before reaching the
summit of Muztagh Ata. During most of the days we hiked at greater elevations.
1 night at 2400m (Karimabad)
1 night at 3200m (Ultar BC)
1 night at 2700m (Gulmit)
1 night at 3600m (trek above Gulmit)
2 nights at 4050m (trek above Gulmit)
1 night at 3100m (Sost)
1 night at 3200m (Tashkurgan)
3 nights at 4400m (Muztagh Ata BC)
5 nights at 5400m (Camp 1)
3 nights at 6200m (Camp 2)
1 night at 6700m (Camp 3)
From left to right: Mike Roberts, Ghulam Hassan, Andrew Stone, and myself
Views from the Karakoram Highway (and around) from Rawalpindi to
Khunjerab Pass
The lower part of the highway and the Indus river
Where the Himalayas, the Karakoram, and the Hindukush meet
Nanga Parbat is in the background in the photo on the right
Downtown Gilgit
Arms are sold freely in Northern Pakistan. Here, the shop sells dry
fruits, as well as arms and ammunitions
Mounts Diram and Rakaposi
In the first picture Diram is on the left and Rakaposi on the right.
The second picture shows Diram and the two pictures on the right show
Rakaposi.
Karimabad and around
The Baltit fort overlooking Karimabad (photo on the left), with Ultar I and II
in the background. The difference of elevation between Karimabad
and the summit of Ultar II (summit on the right of first photo)
is approximatively 5000m. This summit (7388m) was first
climbed in 1996
The "sheep pen" glacier, with Lady Finger (needle in first photo) and
Ultar in the background
Water canals above Karimabad
Along a hike near Gulmit, north-west of Karimabad
Sost, the last Pakistanese town before the border with China
The Pakistan-China border at Khunjerab Pass
Muztagh Ata
General views of Muztagh Ata
From the Karakoram Highway
Views from the trail to Camp 1
View from Karakul lake
Camel loading among tajiks at the beginning of the trek to Base Camp
Base Camp (4400m) and gear sorting
On the way to Camp 1
Camp 1 (5400m)
Between Camp 1 and Camp 2
The following two photos were taken on the way down
Camp 2 (6200m)
Between Camp 2 and Camp3 (6700m)
At the summit (7546m)
Mike is at the center, Andrew on the right, and me on the left.
Hassan took the photo. It may not show, but we are all very happy.
Mike skiing down below the summit
Celebrating and drying gear at BC
Karakoram Highway in Xinjiang
Sceneries north of Muztagh Ata
Street scenes in Kashgar
Patterns of Kashgar
