Uzbekistan (April 2018): Karshi and around
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The city of Karshi (pop. 225,000) is located in southern Uzbekistan roughly half-way between Bukhara and Termez. Originally a Sogdian city named Nakhshab, then an Arab city named Nasaf, it was given its current name in the 14th century by its Mongol rulers (Karshi meaning ″palace″ in Mongolian). Between the 16th and the 19th centuries it was part of the Khanate, then Emirate of Bukhara and was a caravan stop between Balkh in northern Afghanistan and Bukhara. It was annexed by Russia in the second half of the 19th century.
The city does not receive many visitors, despite the presence of some remarkable monuments from the 16th century (mosques and bridge). In addition, on the west of Karshi there are two old religious sites that are still functional. Although these two sites are not especially impressive, they are neither crumbling, nor too heavily restored, and they attract pilgrims, a relatively rare sight in Uzbekistan.
Maps showing the approximate locations of the sites I visited (red dots). Their precise coordinates can be downloaded by clicking here (.kmz file) and opening the downloaded .kmz file in Google Earth.
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Karshi:
Nikolayev bridge built in the 16th century. Its 10 arches span the Kashkadarya river over a length of 122m. It was repaired in 1914 by Russian engineers, who gave it a Russian name.
Statue located in a small park near the southern extremity of the Nikolayev bridge.
Odina mosque (16th century) built on the site of a Mongol palace.
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Bekmir madrassa built in 1904, located near the Odina mosque.
Inner courtyard of the Bekmir madrassa.
Qilichboy madrassa,built in 1911, also located near the Odina mosque.
Kok Gumbaz mosque (16th century).
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Hazrati Khasim Ata mausoleum:
This complex, located 17km northwest of Karshi near the city of Kasan, contains the tomb of Hazrati Khasim Ata, an 11th-century Islamic missionary, as well as several other tombs of lesser known holy men and a small mosque. Surrounded by a larger cemetery, it is particularly peaceful. It still receives the visit of faithful coming to pray on the tomb of Hazrati Khasim Ata and retains a genuine spiritual character.
Main building.
Tomb of Hazrati Khasim Ata in the main building.
Another view of the main building.
Less important, but somewhat more atmospheric buildings housing other tombs.
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One of the old mulberry trees surrounding a small pond (empty during my visit) adjacent to the complex′s entrance.
Sultan Mir Khaydar complex:
This complex is located near the town of Kasbi, some 38km west of Karchi. It consists of several brick buildings housing tombs, some dating from as early as the 11th and 12th centuries, a 17th century mosque, and an old covered water reservoir (sardoba) that is much more aesthetic than the over-restored sardoba located beside the Odina mosque in Karshi. Recently renovated, this attractive site retains authenticity. It is still active and visited by pilgrims.
View of the mosque and its unusually sober minaret.
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Domed buildings housing tombs.
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Old tombstones in a courtyard.
Sardoba: exterior and interior.
